Oddbean

LNBits FOSSA #Bitcoin Lightning ATM build. @Ben Arc Still waiting for the ESP32 screen u less anyone has a donor ESP32 WT32-SC01 Ref: https://github.com/arcbtc/fossa Next the box. https://i.nostr.build/ZNeiYsx9Z59x3a4K.jpg https://i.nostr.build/iLkhhbVVmBc3HXag.jpg

I have uploaded the front facia here: https://github.com/lnbits/fossa/tree/main/3DPrints It's still a prototype, and I await the screen's delivery. I suspect I need to add more clearance. The back box is currently being designed; for example, it needs a lockable door. https://i.nostr.build/see7fl9Z4nRfdAr6.png

OK, if you're building, you will want some extra parts ordered up. M4 x 16mm pan head security torx tamper resistant bolts (14mm+ is fine) These hold the front facia to the back box. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0BTTRPBQV/ Tamper-proof torx wrench (T20) To tighten the front facia Torx bolts. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0D53LNNRW M4 x 30mm carriage/coach bolts These are to replace the bolts supplied with the coin acceptor to accommodate the thickness of the facia. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/386550912089?var=653926055961 5.5mm x 2.1mm DC Power Jack Socket Female Panel Mount Connector This allows the 12V adaptor to plug into the ATM's outside. The box assumes a diameter of 7.7mm (like these). https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01N3679B8 Rubber feet (D30x22xH15) If you want to have this one on the table, some rubber feet will go at the bottom of the backbox with an M5 bolt. You can also use adhesive versions. Grooves in the bottom of the box will support up to 30mm in diameter. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0CQ23M5Z5 Cabinet draw tubular 16mm lock This will be mounted on the door. I may do a variation with an electric solenoid that can use a pin from the screen to unlock so keys will not be lost. I will create shims for different-sized locks to work with the door. NB Door design is still pending. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Litensh-Tubular-Cylinder-Cupboard-Letterbox/dp/B09SHWXWXC/ M15 x 16mm hex socket bolts with M5 nylon nuts To screw the rubber feet into the back box. https://www.amazon.co.uk/16mm-Socket-Button-Head-Screws/dp/B09BG8XNM7 https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bolt-Base-Stainless-Insert-Nylock https://i.nostr.build/aJ3n6egmVCgRFNpR.png Will also be looking into actual 16-pin connectors and alike for a soldered finish rather than push pins that are more likely to fall out.

Oh, and: Female threaded heat set knurled embedded insert nuts, M4 x 6mm L x 6mm OD Using a soldering iron, these are heated up and pushed into the back box for better attachment of the facia. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B09MCVW4GQ/ Optional: Adhesive security plate and locking cable Secure the ATM when desk mounted. https://www.amazon.co.uk/I3C-Security-Anti-Theft-Hardware-Smartphone/dp/B07FM93JL6

Keep me posted. Printing the back-box at the moment which is pretty big. Should be finished by the morning. I’m assuming you can slip some thin nylon bolts between the layers in the screen and use suitably long bolts to hide the screen in. Although some of the holes may not have enough space behind? Alternative will be a way to mount the screen from behind the facia with a lip to stop removal.

I used a heat gun to heat the printed screen mount so that it became soft and then press fit the PCB / screen inside, I don’t think it will go anywhere now 😂. If you do this watch out that you don’t overheat 😄

As long as the first layer goes down OK you’re normally good. I’m printing this in PETG. Only issue I’ve had before on big printers is the edges lifting. Now have the enclosure for the MK3S+ and not had that issue since. Will design up a sheet metal backbox design for a more secure version with the front facia rear mounted.

Fits great! Maybe we don’t even need the grip? Can you pull out the door with the key alone? https://nostrcheck.me/media/c7aa97dce57a6f7fabe0b235172feee864f112b66f8029f1b69b476c0d12c810/1e7b69f8a31e191c184d6cd3831310be236e85f8e4a93dbe2261db29714dc5a8.webp