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 I'd say Sicily. Somewhere near Taormina, but keep away from the tourist traps. Some of the older villages are gems, but there isn't a lot happening as they have been crushed by fiat. 
 Hmm okay. Thanks for sharing any small villages you know of? 
 Castiglione di Sicilia. There is not a lot of English speaking though. 
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  @313Chris:hellokitty_headbang: 

Our Ancestor Cry ...literally