Oddbean new post about | logout
▲ ▼
Jackkluz | 6 months ago (raw) | root | parent | reply | flag +1 
 You’ve got me interested. I’ve got some great local beta if you like #Trad 

Ken Nichols, a traprock legend
https://m.primal.net/IAOf.jpg
▲ ▼
Erik | 6 months ago (raw) | root | parent | reply | flag 
 Sick! I grew up in Boston, never climbed in Connecticut before. Hard east coast trad?
▲ ▼
Jackkluz | 6 months ago (raw) | root | parent | reply | flag 
 Nice!

Yes CT is a very ethical climbing community because of Ken Nichols. Most bolts chopped even if placed on lead for the FA. It’s getting better with 2 bolt anchors/chains at few crags. Few bolts are coming back on the X rated climbs. Tons of R’s

Alot of the good climbing is illegal due to private property. Ken put up so many FAs in CT it’s hard to count. The climbing is hard trad; some good protection, a lot of sketchy runouts. Sandbagged. Trust your nuts 😂

We’ve got the hardest 5.7 trad in the country! MP changed it to 5.8 but climbs like a hard 5.9; “5.7+”

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/105799429

MP imo does not have great beta here, you need the books.