i wrote the elfspice guide, idk if you ever heard of it... was hosted on tripod pretty sure the knowhow i acquired from my hive days was the key... dry the damn solvent DRY THE DAMN NAPTHA AFTER YOU EXTRACT THE FREEBASE INTO IT the difference of just that one thing is incredible back then, orange goo was the norm, and i couldn't vape it because it gave me literal asthma... the only one time i ever broke through the dude was giving me a run on a tube that was caked with crystals that had accumulated from his previous use, and he had figured it out i think (circa 1998) but he didn't let on what it was... i figured it out after my research on the hive circa 2002-3 so i can probably help you get over the first part of the learning process btw
The extraction I saw included a drying process in a Pyrex dish that allows crystallization so the naptha evaporates. I was given a gram of synthetic DMT from a friend coming back from the burn once. Had many beautiful experiences breaking through. When you use it enough to become familiar with the sensation it is not so overwhelming and you can remain aware throughout the experience, This is the best way. I remember being in the woods with some friends in Tahoe and looking at the geometric pattern of how the pine needles stack on top of each other to make a cushion on the forest floor, And the mountains went all oil painting. Surreal.
oh yeah, also, btw best way to grow pure crystals of any freebase chemical is to extract into near boiling solvent, dry it with a drying agent like magnesium sulphate or sodium sulphate (MgSO4 baked in the oven is the cheap and best, grind it finely, only a small amount is required, it's just the tiny bit at the bottom of the jar it needs to pull out of the mix) and then once your warm solvent is dry, ideally, heat it again to near boiling, and put it into a vacuum flask or similar highly insulated container, and then put that inside the freezer, preferably sitting on some spongy material that will stop it catching the vibrations from the compressor that will get you big gnarly chunky crystals, and after you pour off the solvent, after a few days to a week, the purity is extremely high and it only takes minutes for most of the solvent to be gone, an hour to be sure this is standard practise in organic chemistry laboratories
yes, why the heat again? you want to heat it until it starts to get a bit milky or some solids start to form, this tells you it's saturated. then ideally it stays warm and this gives lots of time for the crystals to form slowly and the impurities don't get into the core of the crystal, the longer you can make it stay warm the better also, they do the same thing when baking photovoltaic cells... the bigger those crystals are the more efficient they are
yes, why the heat again? you want to heat it until it starts to get a bit milky or some solids start to form, this tells you it's saturated. then ideally it stays warm and this gives lots of time for the crystals to form slowly and the impurities don't get into the core of the crystal, the longer you can make it stay warm the better also, they do the same thing when baking photovoltaic cells... the bigger those crystals are the more efficient they are