I'm too old. Back a few years I remember staying up until 10:30 and getting up at 5 the next day for work... and doing it again the next day.
Now, 9:30 is too late. 😴
At some point, I'm going to have to make a short video showing my latte routine and all the ways 3D-printing has helped with it.
Coffee and #3Dprinting bring me so much joy.
Thanks to the random "Thirst bots", crypto scam accounts and other bot content, I've finally decided to make my Xitter account protected.
To Elon, all I have to say is "Good jorb! It's definitely worse than it was when you were complaining about bots when mulling your purchase!"
@919a05ef@16d1afba Yeah. Like so many things it's gotten very cliquey and divisive. I keep thinking back to Sega vs. Nintendo back in the day.
I appreciate your work and how you work to improve open source printing.
@919a05ef@16d1afba I've muted several terms over on the bird site for a day. I'm tired of the posturing and self-righteous monologues of certain key parties.
I can only imagine Adrian Bowyer is shaking his head right now.
@f7020166 This is why I refuse to get a single-nozzle multi-color print solution, whether it be Bambu, MMU, Chameleon 3D, etc. I just can't justify the waste or figure out how to make use of the purge in another model, etc. (I usually print precisely what I need, no more.)
That said, I can still do neat multi-color stuff. I'm just constrained to layer swaps or just multiple colors on the print bed.-color
@2c1a2dac That's a good question - Trying to join the end result does not go well. I think joining the strips before turning it into filament is the best way, but I have not yet tried that.
In general, I rely on a filament sensor or simply attending to the printer. Alternatively, in the slicer, you can get an estimate of the weight of the filament used on a color swap, and space color swaps to use most of a line of filament. All techniques come with caveats.
As far as not drinking soda, we ask
@2c1a2dac for bottles from friends and family. 2L bottles give the best yield and generally have consistent thickness so that is what I ask for.
You are correct that those non-carbonated water bottles don't work well. The wall thickness is far too thin to make a filament. You would have to start with a strip so wide as not to make the effort worthwhile.
@2c1a2dac That's a good question - Trying to join the end result does not go well. I think joining the strips before turning it into filament is the best way, but I have not yet tried that.
In general, I rely on a filament sensor or simply attending to the printer. Alternatively, in the slicer, you can get an estimate of the weight of the filament used on a color swap, and space color swaps to use most of a line of filament. All techniques come with caveats.
As far as not drinking soda, we ask
I'm really glad that Stefan from CNC Kitchen got around to making a Recreator 3D machine and further tested PET filament from bottles for #3dprinting.
Watch the video - it's insightful and full of surprises!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1yIe1Pp_Nrg
@fc64ee91 I will never knock using Tinkercad. I still use it for specific applications. There are times when it's just simpler for me to throw together some shapes than it would be to make a formal CAD model.
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