Koz Ross

Intersectional feminist. #3dprinting catboy. Haskells occasionally. Prusa critic. On the spectrum. He/him.


So, _four_ print attempts, and _two_ painting attempts later, here she is, the wood queen!

I won't link to the model, because it's not only badly-supported, it's also badly-designed, which means supporting her is damn near impossible. Hence the four attempts.

#3DPrinting
#Painting
#FediPaint
#Resin3DPrinting
#MiniaturePainting

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https://assets.chaos.social/media_attachments/files/113/211/906/470/927/297/original/eb7da6a8b3e3cd70.jpg

https://assets.chaos.social/media_attachments/files/113/211/906/474/670/095/original/436cc79721f3945c.jpg

https://assets.chaos.social/media_attachments/files/113/211/906/475/167/471/original/43e944f97c471bca.jpg

https://assets.chaos.social/media_attachments/files/113/211/906/476/884/357/original/d1e5609ca557af96.jpg


Pro #3DPrinting tip: do not forget to put your print sheet on your heated bed, then crash your preheated nozzle into your bed, melting a hole in your magnetic sticker.

Not that this happened to me or anything...

nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y


nostr:npub1tc3g36ey7xc70mnlfv4q7845mfmuv5gar2r3ve4ygpelv2mgr6sqv54le3 nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y The XPlus-3 is rod-based, but the dropoff is about 10%. I think its fairly rigid in its construction, but I'm far from an expert.


nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y OK, now it's changed for some reason! I can now do two-motor (meaning straight-line) moves at speeds well in excess of 250mm/s without dying elephant noises, but one-motor moves (meaning diagonals) can't exceed 175 mm/s without dying elephant noises.

I am lost as to why this could be.


nostr:npub19sdzmtpggrjt7mm0egnx4ck0694hsc3cqx4jgyuav4mcqcl9ztjs63u6lg Plus, even if you used a 3010 axial, you could duct around the wall of metal you're blowing into.


nostr:npub19sdzmtpggrjt7mm0egnx4ck0694hsc3cqx4jgyuav4mcqcl9ztjs63u6lg I'm not knowledgeable enough about hotend cooling to really say for sure whether airflow or static pressure matters more. However, either way, I believe going to a 3010 would be better, not least of all because it's about the smallest fan anyone runs as a hotend cooler.


Love it when I purchase a piece of flat-pack furniture, find that it's faulty, have to wait two weeks (and send _multiple_ emails of proof pictures) for a replacement... only to find that the replacement is also faulty, in exactly the same way.

Sigh.


CoreXY #3DPrinting enjoyers: do you find that input shaping gives you lower Y limits than X limits? On the XPlus-3, I have nearly 10K on X as a recommended maximum, but only 8.8K on Y. Charts are both pretty clean, both suggest using the same shaper (ZV).

nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y


nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y It's weirdly specific: up to 250mm/s, it's fine, but even a hair above it sounds like a dying elephant.


nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y Nope, that ain't it. Tried bumping current to 1.2, didn't help. Tried increasing my microsteps to 128 (and turning off interp), didn't help either.


nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y For reference, my A and B motors are both at 1.1 current at the moment. I suspect I need 1.2 to hit those speeds.


#3DPrinting motor experts: I'm having some weird sound issues with my printer now. The attached video plays the same distance move twice: first at 200mm/s, second at 300mm/s. You will observe the first one sounds nice, while the second one sounds like a dying elephant.

... too little current?

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https://assets.chaos.social/media_attachments/files/111/186/955/922/127/932/original/ac91968ba582f8a9.mp3


nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y nostr:npub18h0x6cgsnuvcvpverz4c4vsntgpx83nuhrv827h27854mqhullpqxhcrws This is the most finicky printer I've yet worked with, mostly due to completely baffling decisions on the part of QidiTech. Graphite bushings are completely unnecessary on linear rods: you can just run LM bearings! Those also can be packed with grease _once_, as opposed to these things, which need regular re-lubrication.


nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y Got some advice from nostr:npub18h0x6cgsnuvcvpverz4c4vsntgpx83nuhrv827h27854mqhullpqxhcrws , and on that basis, put some thin oil on the rods. This helped _immensely_ - much smoother motion and less awful noise.


#3DPrinting experts: my Qidi XPlus-3 has graphite bushings, and just today, I noticed this on the top of my X rod. It comes off if I wipe it. Should I be concerned, or is this normal?

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https://assets.chaos.social/media_attachments/files/111/185/317/682/935/629/original/29ac265721ee1554.jpg

https://assets.chaos.social/media_attachments/files/111/185/317/685/475/305/original/a1b8180d28a23303.jpg


nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y nostr:npub1vtdedddfh69kqpu5rskguwtdx5np364kh72hrdlxf9ptkx9sfkuqt7efl7 Just did a racetrack for volumetric flow with 0.8 current on the E motor. Not a skip in sight, even at 20 volumetric.

... did Qidi just accidentally under-amp their motor?


nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y I took some phase resistance measurements on the E motor with nostr:npub1vtdedddfh69kqpu5rskguwtdx5np364kh72hrdlxf9ptkx9sfkuqt7efl7's help, and got readings of 1.9 and 2.2ohms.


nostr:npub19sygqm25umdfx8salh8j5vsqz0zymakcvudwckrgl36xg6nzq44qs9lxaj nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y So basically just run the motor a while and measure how hot it gets?


nostr:npub1canhdnyarz4thu7zgzz3hv3nw0al770etgjjawqukxuw82ceuz6qmq0fm9 nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y That would be really helpful! Judging a colour by how it looks on a spool is damn near impossible.


nostr:npub19sdzmtpggrjt7mm0egnx4ck0694hsc3cqx4jgyuav4mcqcl9ztjs63u6lg nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y It was meant to be.


nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y For clarity, A, B and E run in spreadcycle (stealthchop_threshold is 0), but Z runs in stealthchop (stealthchop_threshold is 9999).

No, I didn't make this config!


Motor experts in the context of 3D printers: how much current is it sensible to feed motors? The Qidi XPlus-3 seems to get weird issues (very early extruder skipping, for example), and I have some suspicion motors are being under-currented.

For reference:

* E motor is a NEMA14 pancake (like for a Sherpa Mini), config gives it 0.714.
* _Single_ Z (yes, I know) is a 35ish mm NEMA17, config gives it 0.27.
* A and B are 48ish mm NEMA17s, config gives them 1.07.

#3DPrinting
nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y


nostr:npub19sdzmtpggrjt7mm0egnx4ck0694hsc3cqx4jgyuav4mcqcl9ztjs63u6lg nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y I even checked: Gdstime 2510s get 2.45 CFM, while Gdstime 3010s get 4.7!


nostr:npub19sdzmtpggrjt7mm0egnx4ck0694hsc3cqx4jgyuav4mcqcl9ztjs63u6lg nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y If it is a 2510, that would explain a lot about the creep. These fans tend to be quite underpowered compared to their 3010 cousins, and due to how it's mounted, you're not even getting the full force of the fan over the heatsink.


nostr:npub19sdzmtpggrjt7mm0egnx4ck0694hsc3cqx4jgyuav4mcqcl9ztjs63u6lg nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y From what I can tell, probably not: the hotend is mounted _very_ rigidly, and (thanks to extensive disassembly) I know that their toolhead doesn't rely on the back panel for counter-balancing. My only concern is any loose wiring, but that's just a few zipties.


nostr:npub19sdzmtpggrjt7mm0egnx4ck0694hsc3cqx4jgyuav4mcqcl9ztjs63u6lg nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y I had a few tubes lying around from custom PC builds, but they took some finding.


nostr:npub19sdzmtpggrjt7mm0egnx4ck0694hsc3cqx4jgyuav4mcqcl9ztjs63u6lg nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y The back cover definitely isn't great. I suspect it's to hide the lack of cable management, but it definitely makes a lot of things much harder than they should be.


nostr:npub19sdzmtpggrjt7mm0egnx4ck0694hsc3cqx4jgyuav4mcqcl9ztjs63u6lg nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y The fan situation is weird: I got shipped two hotends with one fan, and then the replacement I got sent had a fan on it. Not sure why they couldn't just give me another fan with the printer.

Are the fans 3010s? I compared to one I had lying around, and it seemed a bit smaller (maybe a 2510?). Might have to double-check that.

I also noticed that the fan setup on the hotend is weird: a good 25% of the fan is blowing straight into a solid metal mounting part.


nostr:npub135ehc5a66nvtdayst0phnj9y8kvte34nhmqs0pya3v0vullpdyfsdjlmp5 nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y This is why manufacturers can straight-facedly give extrusion temperatures for PETG in the 230-240 range: it'll _work_, it'll just be much weaker. Realistically, you want 260-270, but if your hotend is full of PTFE, those are not temperatures you can hit safely.


nostr:npub12rsnac8k9k089fvxm2ucs5up2wtgnsux60udu2utk058yk6cpqcskrel26 - I remember you having issues with an underpowered extruder not keeping up with your Rapido: how did this manifest? In this case, I hit the matting stage at like, 12 voluflow or so, which is weirdly low. The XPlus-3 hotend has a Volcano-length nozzle and a ceramic heater, and my _KP3S_ can push more than that before hitting matting. Is it possible the extruder here is holding me back, or do I have the wrong symptoms?


nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y For the curious: this is the voluflow racetrack tuning print from OrcaSlicer (made popular by Stefan of CNC Kitchen fame), running PETG at 270C from 5 to 25 volumetric.


Wanted to share this, because it demonstrates a fantastic property of PETG: it has a _huge_ range of extrusion temperatures (and hence, rates), but it becomes more and more matte as it goes colder (or faster).

Also, fantastic demonstration of VFAs being speed-specific, due to some motors resonating more or less at different speeds.

#3DPrinting

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https://assets.chaos.social/media_attachments/files/111/175/474/652/495/598/original/5fbbd317d9afb49b.jpg


nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y I'm kind of amazed that not a single person who gave this printer's re-release a glowing review got _any_ of these issues. Like seriously, I'm either cursed beyond all words, or grossly negligent. I'll let the audience decide which.


nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y In all honesty, I'm really conflicted about this printer now. On the one hand, it has so much potential to be a great workhorse at a solid price. On the other hand, *waves in general direction of all the repairing it's needed so far while producing very few prints*.


nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y Maybe I should have gotten the KLP1 instead.


nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y Lest we all forget, I paid _over a thousand USD_ for this printer (with shipping). Somehow, the KP3S Pro V2, which cost me like, half of this sum, has been less temperamental. At this point, I've had this printer something like two weeks, and one whole week of that was waiting on replacement parts because _the extruder idler arm snapped_.


nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y In general, I'm pretty disappointed with the build and part quality of this printer. The lying about specs (on three separate counts now!) I can tolerate (I hardly expect anything else these days). However, not only is their hotend heat-creep-prone, but their entire construction is one disassembly away from failure. Fantastic repairability.


Fun fact about the QidiTech XPlus-3: the two halves of its toolhead frame are held together by screws that barely drive 1mm in to their opposite corresponding side, and go into threads tapped directly into plastic.

The way I found this out was by doing some disassembly to repair an extruder jam. The hard way. I'm now having to dip into my M3 stash for longer screws, and deploy my M3 metric tap.

#3DPrinting

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nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y I'm gonna definitely keep things cooler, install a copper-plated nozzle they sent me, and chuck a bit of thermal paste on the heatbreak (on the part that goes in the heatsink) to try and keep the heat creep at bay.

The fact a printer at this price point even has such issues (and such false advertising, and not for the first time) is kind of sad, but also kind of unsurprising. It _is_ 3D printing, after all.


nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y Basically, I suspect that the hotends Qidi make don't tolerate heated chambers at the temperatures Qidi claim they can hit. I suspect this because of a warning their UI emits when you start a print heated, which says the temperature in the enclosure should never exceed 55C, despite their claims their chambers are good to 65C...


nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y So I did my usual thing (speculative execution) and used an acetone soak, but just of the clogged end of the heatbreak. Took a while, but eventually did the job. Now going to let it dry _thoroughly_, and reassemble.


nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y The hotend itself is basically a TL CHC Pro, except 2mm shorter for some ungodly reason. The probe height isn't adjustable, before you ask.


So, replacement parts for the XPlus-3 arrived. I used this as an opportunity to take apart my old hotend (which they replaced due to my suspicion of heat creep issues)... and yeah, that's heat creep alright.

This heatbreak has some annoying dimensions (24mm long, unlike basically every other one out there), so replacing it myself is unlikely. I thought about cleaning it by an acetone soak - is this a terrible idea?

#3DPrinting

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https://assets.chaos.social/media_attachments/files/111/169/200/028/360/830/original/12aae61ad9ef36dc.jpeg


Redesigning the KP3S Pro V2 spoolholder to address some structural and design issues, and I gotta say: 3D printable cylinders are a nightmare. Either it's a test of how brave you feel about your layer adhesion, or you have to jump through weird hoops to print them lying on their 'side'.

#3DPrinting

nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y


nostr:npub1dllm5w8nj5jhp6a490nyy88lx6pwc5up9qe4n2mxal8wcd32h8gs7spgg0 I don't have a full material testing setup unfortunately, so there's limited info I can provide. I can definitely check a cube against PLA on my machine to see if there's significant shrinkage, though!


nostr:npub1dllm5w8nj5jhp6a490nyy88lx6pwc5up9qe4n2mxal8wcd32h8gs7spgg0 nostr:npub19dtz5045lnpakgchhjfnxkpzm32zhxer8q7enqtg7k4mxauwwkrqv505k8 nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y Might have to do a cube to check, then.


nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y Normally, failures of voluflow racetracks are a lot less extreme than this! Never had it go from '(apparently) fine' to 'hey spaghetti' that fast.


Decided to finally defeat the AUSTRALIAN FILAMENT MADE FROM REAL AUSTRALIANS. Now on their PET, and it gave... an interesting voluflow racetrack. Never seen that happen before.

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#3DPrinting

https://assets.chaos.social/media_attachments/files/111/157/681/791/028/519/original/99c590688240aebb.jpeg

https://assets.chaos.social/media_attachments/files/111/157/681/797/865/394/original/6d837b08978a2bdb.jpeg


nostr:npub19dtz5045lnpakgchhjfnxkpzm32zhxer8q7enqtg7k4mxauwwkrqv505k8 nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y OK, so basically similar to PETG. Thanks!


#3DPrinting knowledgeable folks: how much does PET (not PET_G_, PET) filament shrink? Is it as much as ABS (meaning 'you have to scale prints'), or not?

nostr:npub19dtz5045lnpakgchhjfnxkpzm32zhxer8q7enqtg7k4mxauwwkrqv505k8 - maybe you know?

nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y


Knowledgeable #3DPrinting folks: who do slicers (specifically PrusaSlicer and its forks) enforce acceleration limits set in a print profile? By this, I don't mean a _printer_ profile, but rather the 'Acceleration control' setting. As far as I can determine, G1 and friends don't allow you to set accelerations. Do they just emit M204s everywhere all the time?

nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y


Definitely an interesting video, which lines up with my experiences. My KP3S Pro V2 has a toolhead-PCB-mounted ADXL, but because it's a bedflinger, I have to use a separate one for the Y axis. I noticed the Y readings are much cleaner than the X: maybe this is why? Might re-try input shaping using the add-on board for both, and measuring closer to the nozzle.

https://youtu.be/ufmUmeDnr0Y

#3DPrinting

nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y


nostr:npub10zu96vsxt53m2d93pk6vcxughv6utz32wd7a82vtm0lhd4zhldpscyjxfl No jokes, if it involves soldering, I'd give you actual money for a kit or a pre-soldered config. Especially if it came with a nice JST connector or something.


nostr:npub10zu96vsxt53m2d93pk6vcxughv6utz32wd7a82vtm0lhd4zhldpscyjxfl Oh well, I'm used to being in supply chain hell anyway, lol.


nostr:npub10zu96vsxt53m2d93pk6vcxughv6utz32wd7a82vtm0lhd4zhldpscyjxfl Is there an Aliexpress source?


nostr:npub10zu96vsxt53m2d93pk6vcxughv6utz32wd7a82vtm0lhd4zhldpscyjxfl Let me know how it goes. How easy to get is this sensor?


nostr:npub10zu96vsxt53m2d93pk6vcxughv6utz32wd7a82vtm0lhd4zhldpscyjxfl How's compatibility with existing printer boards and/or firmware? How difficult would this be to set up with, say, Klipper and an Octopus?


I recently bought a small table to stand the XPlus-3 on. Unfortunately, one of its panels had improperly-cut holes, so it won't fit anymore, and re-cutting isn't possible (they were off by too little). My solution? Turn this panel into a whole new coffee table, with 3D printed legs! Here's how I'm starting out, though it won't be these colours.

Still needs work...

#3DPrinting

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https://assets.chaos.social/media_attachments/files/111/146/501/687/584/845/original/e3cc6b653913ce97.jpeg

https://assets.chaos.social/media_attachments/files/111/146/501/701/469/821/original/1d497e9f5447ded3.jpeg


Feeling a sense of pride helping nostr:npub1vtdedddfh69kqpu5rskguwtdx5np364kh72hrdlxf9ptkx9sfkuqt7efl7 tune an improved printer and hit 22 voluflow.

#3DPrinting
nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y


Those of you who run AdNauseam, you might have noticed Youtube ads creeping in: https://github.com/dhowe/AdNauseam/issues/2385

Luckily, there is a fix available: https://github.com/dhowe/AdNauseam/releases/tag/v3.17.9b1

This seems to work for me after loading it in. To do this, follow the appropriate set of steps from here: https://github.com/dhowe/adnauseam/wiki/FAQ#how-do-i-install-a-development-release-of-adnauseam


nostr:npub1hlrr8qw8qx0zx4ppu6xyevudztdx65szc0zfq7fvyzrecqxr3q3qfzy07p That's a neat idea. I should make myself something like that as well, since I also have a bunch of random stuff just lying around wired together.


nostr:npub1hlrr8qw8qx0zx4ppu6xyevudztdx65szc0zfq7fvyzrecqxr3q3qfzy07p What're you working on? It looks really good.


nostr:npub19sdzmtpggrjt7mm0egnx4ck0694hsc3cqx4jgyuav4mcqcl9ztjs63u6lg nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y To clarify: imagine if, instead of ABS, I wanted to run ABS-GF. I need a hardened nozzle, and to maintain the same flow, I'd need a 10C bump. Yes, if I use it _less_, heat creep is less likely, but if I mostly print ABS-GF (which Qidi seem to expect, since they sell the stuff), I'll hit heat creep issues anyway.


nostr:npub19sdzmtpggrjt7mm0egnx4ck0694hsc3cqx4jgyuav4mcqcl9ztjs63u6lg nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y Yeah, I guess that makes sense, but at the same time, this means the hardened steel nozzle is unusable: you have to bump 10 degrees anyway, and if that makes heat creep so likely, it's gonna be a problem no matter what. Consider PC-CF, for instance! Plus, several other enclosed printers run hardened nozzles by default without such issues (X1C for instance), so it's just a bad hotend design IMHO.

I couldn't even manually feed filament _in_ when trying to cold pull.


nostr:npub19sdzmtpggrjt7mm0egnx4ck0694hsc3cqx4jgyuav4mcqcl9ztjs63u6lg nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y Yes, but that shouldn't be a problem, as long as you bump the temperature 10C. According to Qidi, their hotend is rated to 350C. I mostly did this to avoid having to switch hotends in case I wanted to print abrasives.


nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y I decided _against_ getting the Kingroon KLP1, because I thought 'I don't have much experience with CoreXYs, so I should get one that won't have maintenance issues, so I can learn'.

Well, I sure am learning. The hard way.


nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y Sent Qidi after-sales support a long email with photo evidence. At this point, they might as well give me a new toolhead, since the extruder _and_ hotend are clearly faulty. Both in ways I've never seen mind you!


nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y Oh yeah, the jam was because the filament had curled into a literal hook around a plastic part. Confirms heat creep. Fun.


nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y But wait, there's more! Upon taking the extruder apart, I discovered its idler arm is cracked nearly in half.

... Qidi _better_ have some replacements for me double-fast, or I will have some _really_ mean things to say about them.


nostr:npub1vtdedddfh69kqpu5rskguwtdx5np364kh72hrdlxf9ptkx9sfkuqt7efl7 nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y Honestly, it's not even that I mind doing these kinds of fixes: they come with the territory! I _do_ mind doing them one week in, on a printer that cost more than my previous two _combined_.


nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y I'm _definitely_ going to report this, in detail, to Qidi's after-market support. For this much wasted time and filament, I expect _at least_ a hotend replacement.


Some things I have discovered about the Qidi XPlus-3, again:

* Its extruder idler is fixed in place. Yes, that means cold pulling is impossible on it.
* I've just encountered what looks like heat creep, repeatedly, from its hardened steel hotend, with two different filaments, neither of which are prone to it.
* Upon trying to unload filament, it jammed in the extruder, so now I have to take it apart.

Joy. I paid _premium_ for this experience!

#3DPrinting

nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y


Also wow that's a lot of alt text.


Also, they greased everything!


nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y What on earth they did to this PETG I have no idea. I have never met such a heat-resistant PETG, nor one with such bad layer adhesion. KiwiFil's regular stuff can output 10 voluflow at 260C quite comfortably, and takes 30% fan with no such issues. Oh, and doesn't need astronomical EMs either - 0.95 works just fine.


nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y "But Koz, last time you tried, this filament printed like trash! What did you do differently this time?"

Ah, astute reader. Here's what had to change:

* Fans needed dropping from 30% to 20%. 30% fan turned any filament into something resembling a washing line.
* Voluflow needed capping _hard_. This print ran at 8 (at 270C!), and I still think it needs to be lower.
* EM has to go ridiculously high for PETG (0.97 for this print, and it's _still_ low!).


So, more #3DPrinting fox for you all! This was in the (finally, _finally_ working!) MADE IN AUSTRALIA FROM REAL AUSTRALIANS (aka Aurarum) sparkly black PETG. Tried to get a close-up to show the sparkles.

Top surfaces are still woefully under, despite me pushing EM to a near-unheard-of 0.97! Might have to go even higher, or possibly cap voluflow even more.

nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y

https://assets.chaos.social/media_attachments/files/111/072/392/483/057/845/original/96f701aa05608b1f.jpeg

https://assets.chaos.social/media_attachments/files/111/072/392/503/169/279/original/77efd73361ac292c.jpeg

https://assets.chaos.social/media_attachments/files/111/072/392/502/895/221/original/cbe144e6e319a954.jpeg


nostr:npub100fuygn2kuesukt4egm42rgde8x7a4g6kuuhx58q30x930uxdvqqtxp75u 😻


nostr:npub1canhdnyarz4thu7zgzz3hv3nw0al770etgjjawqukxuw82ceuz6qmq0fm9 Overhangs may still bite you, but it definitely looks safer. Check in your slicer to be sure.


nostr:npub1canhdnyarz4thu7zgzz3hv3nw0al770etgjjawqukxuw82ceuz6qmq0fm9 Ah, in that case, multiple parts all the way.


nostr:npub1canhdnyarz4thu7zgzz3hv3nw0al770etgjjawqukxuw82ceuz6qmq0fm9 nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y That's an option. Main downside of that is the inevitable seam. Maybe that can be designed around, but I dunno how to do it.


nostr:npub1canhdnyarz4thu7zgzz3hv3nw0al770etgjjawqukxuw82ceuz6qmq0fm9 nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y The 45 degree rule is a harsh mistress.


nostr:npub1canhdnyarz4thu7zgzz3hv3nw0al770etgjjawqukxuw82ceuz6qmq0fm9 nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y Or just widen the bottom to make it look more bell-shaped.


nostr:npub1canhdnyarz4thu7zgzz3hv3nw0al770etgjjawqukxuw82ceuz6qmq0fm9 nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y You've got a nasty overhang on the bottom due to that curve. Chamfering it off would help a bunch.


nostr:npub1wt8u4sqa4d5f3f9cjj5622tdx8mh6f3439n4htadvl5rw79a20tstwenc7 nostr:npub18h0x6cgsnuvcvpverz4c4vsntgpx83nuhrv827h27854mqhullpqxhcrws nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y Several other manufacturers sell recycled filaments, but which ones are local (or accessible) to you depends on your location.


nostr:npub1wt8u4sqa4d5f3f9cjj5622tdx8mh6f3439n4htadvl5rw79a20tstwenc7 nostr:npub18h0x6cgsnuvcvpverz4c4vsntgpx83nuhrv827h27854mqhullpqxhcrws nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y PETG (and PLA) I get from KiwiFil. However, unless you live in New Zealand, it's extremely expensive due to shipping.


nostr:npub1suktwdc9nyt8p6nzssykxngdyq9um9cxjjnq7d9j7k0v50k66tvq8c9atk Magical girls are amazing, after all.


nostr:npub18vs8e27ph0sf3czu309lcyzlucvfzsqnzyjht26kmywdyaazfsusxddvqv nostr:npub18h0x6cgsnuvcvpverz4c4vsntgpx83nuhrv827h27854mqhullpqxhcrws nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y Yeah, it's fantastic. Like a dark chocolate.


nostr:npub18h0x6cgsnuvcvpverz4c4vsntgpx83nuhrv827h27854mqhullpqxhcrws nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y It's a good test print IMHO: it verifies top surfaces (the base), bridging (between front paws), small features (legs, tail tip, ears), stringing (too many places to name), and probably a dozen other things I'm forgetting.

And it's cute too.


Been a while since I printed fox, so here's the latest one. This is made from recycled PETG that used to be medicine bottles. It is the stiffest PETG I've yet printed with, and comes off quite nice when thoroughly dried.

nostr:npub18h0x6cgsnuvcvpverz4c4vsntgpx83nuhrv827h27854mqhullpqxhcrws must be mad jelly again. 😹

#3DPrinting
nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y

https://assets.chaos.social/media_attachments/files/111/066/086/898/627/510/original/63baf33c2e73a46d.jpeg

https://assets.chaos.social/media_attachments/files/111/066/086/918/919/393/original/19e7bef5cd1f8476.jpeg

https://assets.chaos.social/media_attachments/files/111/066/086/919/671/793/original/97e55d7a3670d205.jpeg


nostr:npub1d6x04ggqljzldl86s8ykpkp3ll8fupjnh9djxvam6329cr0f2jwqvk0g5y "Sorry I stole your car, here's a leftover burger."


Your daily reminder that I do indeed live in supply chain hell.

https://assets.chaos.social/media_attachments/files/111/062/204/971/160/996/original/391a672cc1cd63d6.png


Pulled the trigger on a QidiTech XPlus-3. If you hear me raging against yet another manufacturer in a few weeks, you'll know why.

More seriously, the printer seems super-solid, and QidiTech have been responsive and reasonable so far. Best customer service in this space since Prusa IMHO.


nostr:npub1r4m5heezz80wlqavwqxpsk3r8uzzj6zfc2t82klczyhwdypprtyq03968p Moisture?


Stream background would be the standard 'workshop with 3D printers on a shelf' view made popular by the likes of Teaching Tech, MandicReally and Nero3D, except off to the side, there's a Prusa Mini in the bin.


Deranged idea: doing FreeCAD + 3D printing streams with a V-tuber avatar and sing songs while you wait for prints to finish.

Is there an audience for this kind of thing I wonder?


nostr:npub18h0x6cgsnuvcvpverz4c4vsntgpx83nuhrv827h27854mqhullpqxhcrws nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y Here's a useful chart I've been following. Hasn't let me down yet. Worth noting though:

* Longer drying that suggested times is fine, unless it's literal weeks;
* If you have time, longer drying at lower temps is better than shorter drying at higher temps; and
* PLA doesn't like to be re-dried too many times (or it goes brittle).

https://assets.chaos.social/media_attachments/files/111/058/920/247/655/195/original/3961bce38825b1c7.png


nostr:npub1pu3ryltaaqjym9gj5fpcv623edtfh2vuvrtcd8pz75p6nlyt0nrqyq8r76 Sounds like a hygiene product marketed to dudes honestly. The ones in a black case made of metal.called WARPAINT or so, because lol fragility.


Brb printing fox again.


nostr:npub19dtz5045lnpakgchhjfnxkpzm32zhxer8q7enqtg7k4mxauwwkrqv505k8 nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y Then I'm most likely in that boat.


nostr:npub19dtz5045lnpakgchhjfnxkpzm32zhxer8q7enqtg7k4mxauwwkrqv505k8 nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y Sacrificial tower might work. I might also look into whether my fan ducting is suboptimal - I suspect it is, but CFD modelling isn't something I know how to do yet.


nostr:npub19dtz5045lnpakgchhjfnxkpzm32zhxer8q7enqtg7k4mxauwwkrqv505k8 nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y Yeah... I can't say I've ever seen anything like this with Polymaker silks.


nostr:npub19dtz5045lnpakgchhjfnxkpzm32zhxer8q7enqtg7k4mxauwwkrqv505k8 nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y I'm already running full force on a Gdstime 5015 with custom ducts. The ducts may be suboptimal in airflow or direction somewhat, but beyond that, my system's got nothing more to give.


nostr:npub19dtz5045lnpakgchhjfnxkpzm32zhxer8q7enqtg7k4mxauwwkrqv505k8 nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y Which ones have you tried? I've only really used the Polymaker silks, and while they did need a temperature bump, I never had issues to that level with layer adhesion.


nostr:npub19dtz5045lnpakgchhjfnxkpzm32zhxer8q7enqtg7k4mxauwwkrqv505k8 nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y Layer adhesion-wise, you gotta bump silks at least 10 degrees if not more (again, TPU blend forces it).


nostr:npub19dtz5045lnpakgchhjfnxkpzm32zhxer8q7enqtg7k4mxauwwkrqv505k8 nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y This is not a TPU blend, unlike most silks. I had this issue with regular PLA as well - that tail tip is kind of a tiny detail and is a bit obnoxious. Might knock the minimum speed down even more to try and cool better.


nostr:npub1xmupzrnhznm4p9ukc23754nqvjxgpjxstuma37srqspxrgudrsrsvvag5s I might try that. It's never been necessary, but there's always a first time.


Not printed anything for a while, so here's a dancing cute fox, in a new silk filament.

I can _never_ get the tail tip printing right, no matter how slow I go or how much I cool though.

#3DPrinting

nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y

https://assets.chaos.social/media_attachments/files/111/034/248/918/596/728/original/ca2e4b717874f65f.jpeg

https://assets.chaos.social/media_attachments/files/111/034/248/976/148/963/original/aa82aa0fce6b1a46.jpeg

https://assets.chaos.social/media_attachments/files/111/034/248/990/553/746/original/c5571297c584a263.jpeg


Latest project finished. This one took a _lot_ of effort, but I'm happy with it. This was my first time using snap fits and sacrificial layers!

nostr:npub12atwfrq4rfv7fqara6gzsgrgj7k8ngewzl5nzs46agwyxzh0e25qxlme5y
#3DPrinting

https://assets.chaos.social/media_attachments/files/111/021/649/005/984/508/original/9657ec18918250dc.jpg


nostr:npub18h0x6cgsnuvcvpverz4c4vsntgpx83nuhrv827h27854mqhullpqxhcrws nostr:npub1suktwdc9nyt8p6nzssykxngdyq9um9cxjjnq7d9j7k0v50k66tvq8c9atk Yes, agreed. 'Basic' is not the word I would use here.